As the Olympics approach northern Italy, the region's unique culinary landscape, nestled within the Dolomites, becomes a focal point for visitors. The Olympic events, rather than being concentrated in a single location, are spread across various towns and valleys between Milan and Cortina. Cortina itself lies within the heart of the Dolomites, a UNESCO-recognized mountain range spanning approximately 15,000 square kilometers across northeastern Italy. This area is celebrated for its dramatic limestone peaks, breathtaking alpenglow sunsets, and a distinct cultural blend, where German and the local Ladin language are commonly spoken. Cookbook author Meredith Erickson, whose 2019 work 'Alpine Cooking' explores the culinary traditions of Italy, Switzerland, Austria, and France's mountainous regions, offers an unparalleled perspective on this territory. Her extensive research into the area's gastronomic heritage even led her to co-create Doladira, an organic, rhubarb-based aperitivo inspired by a recipe discovered during her studies, featuring regional botanicals like plum, gentian, elderflower, and rosemary. Erickson emphasizes that experiencing Alta Badia, a prominent ski resort encompassing charming villages, is best done by structuring activities around the Sellaronda ski circuit, choosing routes based on desired dining destinations.
Erickson's recommendations begin with Rifugio Bioch, a family-owned establishment above San Cassiano, known for its accessibility and status as a natural gathering spot. Now managed by Marcus Valentini, the refuge blends a deep commitment to alpine cooking with a serious appreciation for wine, offering options from affordable Alto Adige Pinot Bianco to rare vintages like Dom Pérignon. Another must-visit is Rifugio Sponata, owned by Hugo Pizzinini of Rosa Alpina. This mountain retreat boasts an impressive wine list, with many selections directly from the Rosa Alpina cellar, including rare Miani and special Californian vintages. Sponata is also praised for its excellent grill, making it an ideal spot for an afternoon meal. In Corvara, while La Perla is a famous five-star hotel, Erickson highlights its charming guesthouse, Berghaus Ladinia, for its authentic atmosphere, traditional Ladin dishes, and warm hospitality. The article also recommends Da Aurelio, accessible via the scenic Passo Giau, where owner Gigi, a knowledgeable forager, provides unique private cooking experiences. For Sunday lunch, Baita Fraina, near Cortina, is celebrated for its homemade deer prosciutto and traditional Casunziei, a beetroot-filled ravioli. Its sister establishment, Enoteca Fraina, offers a haven for wine enthusiasts. Lastly, 1224, a temporary relocation of Baita Piè Tofana to Hotel Savoy, brings Michelin-trained chef Federico Rovacchi's modern alpine cuisine directly into Cortina, making his exceptional cooking more accessible during the Olympic period. Finally, Rifugio Scotoni, a legendary spot accessible by shuttle and a long ski descent, offers a famously convivial atmosphere where guests can linger over lunch prepared by Christian on the grill, while Manuela warmly hosts, creating a magical and adventurous dining experience.
Exploring the unique culinary traditions of the Dolomites, as illuminated by Meredith Erickson, reveals a rich tapestry of flavors deeply connected to the region's distinct cultural identity and stunning natural beauty. This journey through alpine cuisine is not merely about food and drink; it's an immersion into a vibrant heritage that values authenticity, community, and the simple joys of life. These establishments, from rustic refuges to sophisticated hotel dining rooms, embody a spirit of passion and dedication, offering experiences that nourish both body and soul. Engaging with such traditions enriches our understanding of cultural diversity and reminds us of the profound connection between people, their environment, and the stories told through their culinary artistry.